The Nixons honeymooned here. "Who's Who" listed the Empress Hotel as New York tycoon Pierpont Morgan's summer family residence. Beautiful Victoria has half the rain and twice the history of Vancouver with a wonderfully walkable waterfront and few high-rises. It's only a day trip from Vancouver thanks in part to super ferries that run between Tsawwassen and Swartz Bay.
In a day, you can easily walk the downtown core where the very English Government Street gleams with mahogany and stained glass heritage buildings. Stop by tobacconist E.A. Morris or Munro's (the "best bookstore in Canada" according to "Maclean's" columnist Allan Fotheringham) or Roger's (which will ship hockey puck-sized chocolates to Buckingham Palace or your house). The Empress Hotel still pours 1.6 million cups of afternoon tea a year in its splendid lobby, but curry "tiffin" is equally divine in the Bengal Lounge. Less well known: summer tea on the heavenly gardens of Point Ellice House (take the mini Victoria Harbour Ferry). The flip side of Victoria includes the arboreal charms of Ross Bay Cemetery, second hand stores on Johnson, hip Hoi Polloi's mix of quirky Mexican and Canadian art, breakfast at the Re-bar Modern Foods and a walk on Songhees Westsong Way.
Getting There
Victoria is on Vancouver Island, 107 km (76 miles) southwest of Vancouver. The trip, by car or bus and ferry, takes approximately 4 hours each way.
By Ferry
Ferries leave approximately every 2 hours and passengers should be at the terminal at least 30 minutes prior to departure. In the summer, ferries leave every hour but there is more car traffic so you should be there at least 45 minutes prior to departure. You can make a reservation but it will cost extra (604.444.2890 or 1.888.724.5223). For schedules and fares contact BC Ferries at 1.888.223.3779 or 250.386.3431. For BC Ferry Reservations call 1.888.724.5223 within BC, or 604.444.2890 outside of BC.
By Tour Bus
(12-13 hour tours with complimentary pick-up and drop off at your downtown hotel.) A number of Vancouver companies offer escorted day trips to Victoria. Itineraries vary, but most include sightseeing in Victoria, and some tours include a visit to Butchart Gardens or a whale-watching trip.
Links:
Victoria Hotels
